MTB Winter Safety Matters
The Snowbikers Guide to Winter Mountain Biking Safety

Equipment
The equipment you carry ultimately depends on a worse-case-scenario assessment of your chosen route. For example if your trip is a commute to work along snowbound roads, an icy tow-path, or a lap around the local park, it is unlikely that you would need to prepare for a forced overnight encampment if the weather changes or your bike breaks; probably the worst you need to prepare for is having to walk out. However, with longer trips further into the backwoods where hiking out in bad conditions may be much more problematic, such preparations may be more appropriate. So one of the first jobs is to assess just how serious a trip you are planning: at the furthest point how long would it take you to walk out in bad weather and potentially carrying a bike? Could you find the way in bad visibility or heavy snow? Could a casualty be kept safe until help arrived? The next step is to kit-up accordingly, and it is worth not cutting corners. (MTB Equipment)

Clothing: Always a tricky one to get right without a lot of trial and error. A windproof outer shell layered up with fleece over a wicking base-layer according to taste is the conventional way to go. In climates where rain or sleet may be encountered, then the shell should also be waterproof, but where sub-zero temperatures are a reasonable expectation, then a waterproof shell may not be ideal; condensation can freeze on the inside of membrane-based jackets (e.g. gore-tex) dramatically reducing their breathability. Clothing made from windproof fabrics such as pertex can be much more comfortable in these circumstances. The amount of clothing underneath is down to personal taste, and when you do get it right you might still reasonably expect to feel cold for the first few minutes after starting, so that you are comfortable once warmed up. Layers should consist of fleece and wicking fabrics, and because of its water retaining properties, cotton is best avoided.
A potential problem in dressing for your trip is accommodating the insulation needs of an enforced stop, with say a mechanical or a change in the weather or even just for lunch; once the exercising stops, a chill can set in very quickly. Down waistcoats or jackets, which pack very small but offer excellent insulation, are a worthwhile inclusion as extra layers for longer trips. Because moisture reduces the loft of the down, and thus it’s insulating properties, down garments are not ideal for wearing during strenuous activity. However, there is a school of thought that says that for winter biking it is best to keep the activity rate sufficiently low that you do not sweat, as you are likely to remain warmer when you stop. (MTB Clothing)

Gloves: Another difficult one to get right; and to be honest not one that I can claim to have found the perfect solution; as with most clothing issues, what works for one person is not necessarily the solution for another. With their reduced surface area, the warmest hand wear is likely to be a pair of mittens. However, when riding a bike you need to be able to shift gears and operate the brakes, and mittens are not usually up to this, especially if you have rapid-fire shifters and prefer one- or two-fingered braking. As a compromise between these conflicting demands, a number of manufacturers including Pearl Izumi; Outdoor Designs, and Dianese have produced what are affectionately referred to as “lobster gloves”. These feature some of the reduced surface area of mitts combined with some of the dexterity of conventional gloves. The fingers may be split 3/1 or 2/2 and it is important to work out how many fingers you brake with before buying. Beyond that there are a wealth of conventional waterproof winter gloves at fairly reasonable prices, and I have found little to recommend bike-specific brands over, say, ice-climbing ones. In my own experience, gloves that come with a removable liner have proved most versatile. (MTB Clothing)

Footwear: For many people on winter bike trips cold toes, along with cold hands, are a real problem. In both cases blood-flow is a major contributing factor, and those with poor circulation may suffer all the more. To maximise foot warmth increased layers of insulation should not come at the price of circulation, and shoving on an extra pair of sock under your normal footwear can be counterproductive. Many winter bikers recommend the purchase of cycling shoes or boots a couple of sizes larger than normal, in order to accommodate the extra layers of socks needed to stay toasty. Additionally some cycle-shoe manufacturers, including Shimano and Lake are producing winter specific boots. The Lake MXZ300 looks like a particularly suitable snowbike shoe, but as I’ve never actually seen a pair in the flesh to try on, I can comment no further. Non-cycling specific, insulated winter boots, used in conjunction with flat MTB pedals can provide another effective solution. We have found that the use of a very short gaiter over any boot can provide a successful means of keeping snow out. (MTB Clothing)

Food/water: In a cold environment you can burn up a lot of energy just keeping warm. Carry plenty of food for the journey, and a good portion more in case of emergency. The very popular bladder based drink systems such as the hydration systems from camelback are great but do have their drawbacks in the cold; even when fitted with an insulated tube cover, water can still freeze in the bite valve rendering the thing useless. This can be prevented to a certain extent by blowing the water back out of the tube after drinking, but in very cold situations even this may not suffice. Some users advocate the wearing of slim bladder holders under the jacket. That way, the drink tube only emerges at the neck and can be pushed back down into the warmth of the jacket when not required. Carrying a water bottle in an internal pocket can be an alternate approach. (Outdoor Equipment)

Tool kit: As with any bike trip, it is sensible to carry a pump, spare inner tubes, and sufficient tools to effect common trailside repairs. Additionally a set of lighter gloves may allow you to work effectively without freezing your fingers; a pair of household rubber gloves worn over thin liners can be the perfect if slightly bizarre solution. Other additions which may be of value include a cigarette lighter (for lighting fires), knife (for wrestling with polar bears and cutting small firewood), torch, and first aid kit. (MTB Tools).

Telephone/radios: Mobile phones are always a useful addition, but should not be seen as an alternative to carrying adequate safety equipment. Coverage can be patchy in the mountains, and extremes of cold can severely affect battery life. As such, mobiles are best kept in an internal pocket rather than a rucksack, and ideally in a waterproof bag to keep moisture out. When held by front and back-markers, the two-way walky-talkies now commonly available can be useful in keeping a group together, but their limited range means there would be of little use in summoning help. (Outdoor Equipment)

Survival blanket/Group shelter: These can be used to provide shelter in a range of situations from lunch break through to an enforced encampment in bad weather - the Terra Nova Bothy Bags are ideal. For survival bags, go with the heavy gauge plastic variety, as the lightweight foil type are probably not up to the task. My personal preference would be a group shelter, effectively a lightweight tent without poles which is supported by the people sat within. For little extra bulk these can perform all the tasks expected of a heavy gauge plastic bag, but their durability means they are more likely to be used in non-emergency situations, and are more comfortable and social to use. (Outdoor Equipment)

Snowshoes: Walking through deep snow can be exhausting, especially when carrying a bike. Snowshoes allow you to float on the surface, thus making progress much easier. Whilst attempting downhill trails which turned out to be much softer than I anticipated, I have been very glad of these when walking out again. Additionally they are very useful for pre-walking snowbike trails to pack the snow down into a ridable surface. In the USA and Canada, the preferred design seems to be a tubular aluminium frame supporting a fabric deck, whereas in Europe a moulded plastic shoe is more common. I have been using a French made TSL 225 which is reasonably light and very adequate to the task. and also out the Promenade Snowshoe, which is a great all-use snowshoe. (Outdoor Equipment)

Avalanche transceiver/search poles/shovels: In the event of travelling through areas prone to avalanche, then the carrying of avalanche equipment and knowledge of how to use it is strongly recommended. For my money, I’d choose another route. (Outdoor Equipment)

Snowbiking good practice
Once again, the use of the procedures detailed below depends on the trip you are making. For your commute to work, it would be useful to see the weather forecast before kitting up, but you are unlikely to need a GPS to get home. Having said that, it is always useful to have someone who knows what you are up to, and when you are expected to be back, and so these points are perhaps more generally applicable than the equipment discussed above.

Route Choice: Be realistic about your abilities, and the limitations of snowbiking. Start small and learn where the boundaries are, and make sure you have a right to be on the trails you are riding. Let someone know where you plan to park, your route of choice, any contingency plans, and what equipment you are carrying and try not to deviate from these plans once underway. Give a realistic estimate of trip duration. Even familiar trails can look different under cover of snow, so take extra care with navigation and consider the use of a GPS unit; these can be very useful when backtracking in blizzard conditions but see notes about battery life above.

Company: Ride with friends, and make sure they are suitably equipped before setting out. Watch each other, especially for signs of exhaustion and hypothermia.

Environment: Before setting out, check the weather forecast and avalanche status if relevant. Be prepared to change your equipment, your route or to cancel your trip on the strength of it.

Turning back: If for whatever reason things don’t seem right go with your instincts and don’t be afraid to turn back. Similarly, if you are falling too far behind schedule, consider a retreat rather than pushing on. It can be the hardest decision to make, especially when you are out with a group of friends, but it could save your life.

Late back procedure: Leave a prearranged schedule of escalation with your route and equipment details. For example 2 hours late, notify emergency services of an overdue party. It is worth calling rescue teams sooner rather than later; they will not necessarily send a search party out after 2 hours, but it allows them to start monitoring the situation, assimilating the necessary information and alerting resources when necessary. If you do return late, try to inform the appropriate people as soon as possible; the rescue team will not be amused to find you sitting in the pub. Outside of the UK, make sure you have the appropriate insurance to cover mountain rescue.

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