On the right track - cycling on snow

Choose the right track when cycling on snow

One of the greatest things about the whole snowbiking thing (apart from tyres with metal spikes) is the infinitely variable riding conditions encountered out on the trail. Even if you only have access to one suitable snowbiking route, it will offer different experiences every time you ride it. Compared to summer riding, you may have to downgrade your expectations a little, as progress is likely to be slower and harder work. You should also be prepared for more frequent walks and perhaps the possibility that you may need to turn back and try another day. As ever, the more you ride, the more you will become attuned to what will work and what wont.

Some general pointers
Assuming that your snowbike is suitably equipped with studded tyres then, ironically, sheet-ice probably represents your best chances of forward motion, especially if any uphill is involved. The studs provide an impressive amount of grip which is unlikely to be bettered even by walking. Hard-packed snow would come a good second, and as such, well used routes are a good starting point for the would-be snowbiker.

Ski-resort service routes, dog-sleigh tracks, skidoo trails and walking routes may all have a suitably compressed base, and to this end we have spent time snowshoeing trails early in the winter to pack down a suitable base for a snowbike route later on. Almost by definition, you are likely to meet other traffic on such routes, and a sensible and courteous approach to other users is required; as the new-boy in the snowsport world, it is likely that you will be the one judged out of place. Cross-country ski trails often feature pre-cut ski lines, and users may be rightly annoyed if you ride-over and destroy them. Another top tip is never play chicken with a piste-basher! There is much to be said for night riding, when traffic is greatly reduced on such trails. Ski resort pistes can also provide excellent snowbiking, but your right to use them may be at best questionable, and we would suggest that they should never be attempted during skiing hours. Even at night, a careful lookout for piste-grooming vehicles needs to be maintained.

The more deep, soft and powdery the snow gets, the more difficult it is to get a snowbike going. On downhill routes, the gradient can offset some of these initial problems, but in deep snow the tyres are unable to bite into anything solid, and the bike washes about like riding in sand. In these circumstances, it is difficult to do more than follow the fall-line of the hillside, and anything off-camber is likely to end horizontally. Having said all that, the more deep, soft and powdery the snow gets, the less painful it is to fall into.

During sunny weather, the surface of the snow-pack undergoes a cycle of thawing and refreezing, producing a hard crust over softer snow. This can be difficult and unpredictable to ride; the crust thickness will vary according to the amount of sun it has been exposed to, so under trees, there may be a lesser crust than in open meadows. Conversely, the sun may be initiating another thaw cycle so the crust in the meadow may be softer than that under the trees. Another anomaly is that, if hit at speed, each patch of crust has to support your weight for less time, so is more likely to hold. However, if you hit the crust at speed and it gives way under the front wheel, you are likely to go over the bars in a rather spectacular manner. Speed, combined with weight as far back as possible is probably the best compromise in these circumstances. As an extension of this point, and in terms of under-wheel conditions rather than comfort, the coldest times of the day (first thing in the morning or late at night) are likely to offer the best snowbiking conditions.

As ever, these notes reflect our personal experiences under the prevalent local conditions, and as they say in all the best disclaimers, your experiences may vary. The best way to learn is to get out, stay safe and ride.

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